The First Brewers on the Niagara Frontier, Buffalo, New York
By John P. Eiss (6/2015)
The Niagara Frontier is located in Western New York State between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario along the Niagara River. At the turn of the 18th century the Niagara Frontier was a rugged and distant wilderness populated by Native Americans, adventurers, and traders. In1789 the areas first tavern located on Buffalo Creek near the Niagara River was operated by Joseph Hodge, locally known as “Black Joe”. Hodge sold and bartered alcohol to fur traders and travelers. The alcohol available at the time was whisky or rum as they were relatively inexpensive, easy to transport and had a long shelf life. The Village of Buffalo was settled in the same area as “Black Joes” and later became the hub of the Niagara Frontier.
Cider (hard) was a popular drink in the area and most likely was the first alcohol beverage locally produced. By 1810 most whisky and rum arrived from Pittsburgh and Detroit aboard Great Lakes sailing ships. Beer was not available on the Niagara Frontier as it had a short shelf life and was too expensive to transport. Once farmers began arriving in large numbers beginning in 1800 and growing crops of wheat, barley, oats and corn the home brewing of beer began in earnest. The first residents of Buffalo were mostly English and Scottish as were the first brewers[1]. During this pre-canal period only one commercial brewing operation has been documented in Buffalo[2].
The opening of the Erie Canal in 1825 was a watershed event for Buffalo and the Niagara Frontier. The Canal connected the Hudson River and New York City to the Great Lakes through Buffalo at the western terminus of the canal. In just a few years the backwater frontier Village of Buffalo was turned into the fastest growing transportation center in the United States. The canal opened up a fast and cheap route for transporting lumber and grain from the mid-west to the east coast, and finished goods and people from the east to the west. Travel time between Buffalo and New York was reduced from six weeks to ten days, and transportation cost fell from $100 to $10 a ton. When the Erie Canal was first completed in 1825 Buffalo’s population was 2600, five years later it more than doubled to over 6000. The canal also redefined buffalo brewing from a cottage endeavor to an industry. Buffalo developed into one of the country’s major brewing centers during the 1800’s. In 1873 alone there were over 33 breweries listed in the city directory producing 176,299 barrels of beer and ale annually.
Commercial brewing operations[3] began showing up throughout the area in the 1830’s. Locally brewers were brewing “small beer” low in alcohol and high in nutrients but with a short shelf life. Brewing was generally only possible form October until March when temperatures were low enough to allow fermentation of the wort (beer). For this reason most Buffalo brewers had other occupations during the summer months. Making soap and candles with ash produced from the wood burned in the brewing process was a common summer occupation for early Brewers. The local beer began to grow in popularity as it became more readily available. It was safe to drink and the local temperance groups, of which there were many, were more opposed to the high alcohol distilled drinks such as whisky and rum. Buffalo’s first brewing operations were very small producing only one to three barrels at a time. Brewing only required knowledge, hard work, ingredients, and three or four vessels: a copper brewing kettle, wooden mash tun, an optional cooling vessel and wooden fermenting container or barrel. The brewers, as did most merchants, operated under the barter system. Money was hard to come by on the Niagara Frontier and brewers would exchange beer for grain or other farm goods.
Buffalo’s upper class, in the 1830’s and 40’s, favored Champaign, Madeira, Sherry, and Bordeaux wines along with pure cognac. New England rum and gin were also popular and so was London porter mixed with ale called “alf and ‘alf”. Whisky was considered a vulgar drink meant for the lower classes. The opening of the canal allowed for the cheap transport of all these drinks by the barrel from cities like Philadelphia and London. Local merchants would then bottle the liquor, porter and ale for sale. Porter and ale were higher in alcohol and hops allowing for extended shipping distances. Small beer only lasted for a short time, especially in the hot weather, requiring it to be brewed locally. In the 1840’s brewers began to dig cellars, harvest lake ice and were able to store beer for longer periods of time. In the 1850’s Buffalo brewers started brewing lager beers requiring lower fermentation temperatures and longer storage periods.
Buffalo’s First Brewery: 1811 Joseph Webb Brewery
Joseph Webb was Buffalo’s first documented commercial brewer. He operated the Black Rock Brewery in 1811 based on ads placed in the “Buffalo Gazette” in November and December of that year.
His Brewery was located in what was then the Village of Black Rock, just north of Buffalo, on the Niagara River. It is now known as the Black Rock district of Buffalo. His choice of a brewing location may have been influenced by the large contingency of American military stationed at Black Rock because of the War of 1812.
The White Ash Letters of 30 Nov. 1811 also attested to the breweries existence: “Joseph Webb has foresight; he believes whiskey is injurious; he knows that men will not confine themselves to the use of water”. Obviously the temperance issue and water safety were concerns of the time and Webb was trying to use them to his advantage.
Webb’s Black Rock Brewery was most likely destroyed in December of 1813 when the British crossed the Niagara River from Canada and burned all of Black Rock and Buffalo. There is no further mention of Webb or his Brewery after 1811.
We can learn several additional facts from the Webb ads. First, they were placed in cold weather as brewing was not possible in hot weather. Second, he employed the credit and barter systems in his brewing operation. Third he brewed with wheat and barley indicating they were readily available locally. Lastly, the terms “malt liquor” and “beer” were interchangeable at that time.
Buffalo’s Second Brewery: 1824?[4] 1825 Kane, Peacock and Relay Brewery
It is most likely there were several brewing operations in Buffalo between 1811 and 1824; however records of their existence are lost or never existed. According to the 1825 census of Buffalo taken by Leonard P. Crary two breweries were operating in Buffalo. However, an article by Sheldon Ball states there was only one brewery in 1825 Buffalo. The disparity probably centers on what were considered the boundaries of Buffalo at the time.
The second documented Buffalo brewery was operated as early as 1824 by Dennis Kane, P. Peacock and Charles Relay. The three men are listed in the 1828 Buffalo Directory as brewers, Niagara Street. In addition the 1828 Map of Buffalo by L.P. Crary shows a brewery at the corner of Niagara, Mohawk and Morgan (later Elmwood) Streets. Apparently their brewing operation ended before 1832 as it is not listed in the 1832 directory and only Charles C. Relay was listed as a brewer on Seneca Street.
Kane, Peacock and Relay brewery was short lived however and a 1909 article in the Buffalo Evening Times indicates John Moffat and his son James purchased the brewing operation around 1833. Also, the 1836 Buffalo City Directory lists Moffat as a brewer at that location. The 1839 Directory lists James Moffat & Co. as a “brewery, Soap and Candle Factory”. The Moffat Brewery continued in operation until son James died and it was sold to Arthur Fox and became the Fox and Williams Brewery. In 1876 it was sold back to the Moffat family and continued in operation at the same location until the advent of Prohibition forced their closure in 1920. After Prohibition the Phoenix Brewery continued brewing “Moffats Pale Ale” through an agreement with the Moffat family.
Buffalo’s Third Brewery and First Brew-Pub: 1826 Rudolph Barr, Cold Springs Tavern & Brewery
The Cold Springs Tavern was located near a natural fresh water spring just north of Buffalo and was a major stopping place on the Niagara Frontier for soldiers and travelers before, during and after the war of 1812. The Tavern was located at Main and Ferry Streets in present day Buffalo. Rudolph Barr with two partners took over operation of the old Cold Springs Tavern around 1825. After a year or so Barr started a brewery at the location and gave Buffalo its first Brew-Pub.
Rudolph Barr was originally from Switzerland and came to America in 1814. Barr has been credited with brewing the first strong beer in Buffalo. Strong beer and lager beer are not the same thing. Small beer and strong beer use top fermenting yeast while lager beer uses bottom fermenting yeast that need lower brewing temperatures. Small beer is lower in alcohol than strong beer. Both of Barr’s partners left the business and Barr eventually sold his tavern and brewery in 1834.
James Mcleish took over operation of the brewery in1836 and later added a malting operation and distillery. By 1857 Mcleish had stopped brewing but continued his malting operation for some time.
Buffalo’s Forth Brewery: 1830? 1836 Roos Brewery
Several newspaper accounts and a brewer’s convention publication in 1888 and 1897 indicate Jacob Roos brewed beer as early as1830 in Sandy Town north of Black Rock on York Street (now Porter Ave.) near the Erie Canal. At that time Sandy Town was not part of Buffalo and not included in the Buffalo directories. The first contemporary documented record of Jacob Roos brewing in Buffalo was the 1836 city directory. It indicates he commercially brewed beer on Rock St. (later Canal St.) below Genesee near the canal district.
The1837 city directory lists Jacob Roos as moving his brewery to German above Oak. In the 1838-9 city directory Roos again moved his brewery to its final location at Pratt Street near Batavia (later Broadway). Jacob Roos operated the brewery until his death in 1867. Jacob’s son George Roos continued the brewery operation until 1893 when Leonard Burgwerger purchased it.
Burgwerger built a new brewery on the site and called it the Iroquois Brewing Co. The brewery continued in operation until “Prohibition” in 1920. It reopened at the end of “Prohibition”. After several owner changes and a final acquisition by the International Breweries Inc that failed the brewery closed in 1971. Iroquois was one of Buffalo’s largest and most successful breweries.
Buffalo’s Fifth Brewers: 1830? 1832 McCulloch Brewery
Alexander McCulloch and his son John were listed as brewers, Seneca Street in the 1832 Buffalo Directory. Charles C. Relay of Buffalo’s second brewery is also listed as a brewer, Seneca Street. Could Relay and McCulloch have brewed together for a short time?
The “Hydraulics” was an area near present day Seneca and Hydraulic Streets where a canal was dug in 1828 from Buffalo Creek to produce hydraulic power for an industrial zone. The 1832 Buffalo Directory lists this area as having a grist mill, hat body shop, pail factory, last factory, woolen factory and one brewery believed to be McCulloch’s. Around 1836 the Hydraulics name was changed to “Clintonville” with a population of 500. It was later incorporated into the city of Buffalo.
Alexander had three sons with his wife Elizabeth: Alexander Jr. the eldest, John H. and James. Alexander Sr., who turned the brewery over to his eldest son around 1836, continued to live in Clintonville with his wife until his death around 1846. The McCulloch’s became an important family in what was then called the “Hydraulics” or “Clintonville”. Alexander Jr. and his brothers operated their brewery located on Mill Street near the Hydraulic canal (later Hydraulic St.) until 1843 when they relocated to Steuben Street (later becoming part of Carroll Street) also near the Hydraulic canal. The Attica Railroad laid tracks into Buffalo down Mill Street in the early 1840’s. This is probably what caused McCulloch to relocate his brewery to Steuben Street.
In 1847 the McCulloch’s sold their brewery to James H. Barton and Matthew J. Gilman. The Barton and Gilman Brewery operated until 1857 when it was sold to William W. Sloan. Sloan named his brewery the Hydraulic Brewery. The location remained the same but the address changed to 686 - 702 Carroll Street. Sloan continued brewing and malting at the Hydraulic Brewery until 1876.
Buffalo’s Sixth Brewery: 1830? 1832 Benson Brewery
John Benson is listed as a brewer at 202 Main Street in the 1932 Buffalo Directory. Most brewers needed a second occupation especially during the summer months when brewing was not possible. John and Michael Benson were appointed watchmen (constables) of the triangle district (canal and Main St.) by the district council in 1832. This suggests they were respected and established businessmen (probable brewers) in the area as early as 1829. As watchmen they were most active during the non-brewing summer months when the canal and lake were open to traffic.
In 1836 the Bensons moved their brewing operation to the corner of Church and Genesee Streets, next to the Erie Canal. Michel Benson continued to operate the brewery until at least 1842. John Benson worked at the brewery along with Robert Coombs during much of that time. William Cronk, a Milkman, was also listed in the 1836 directory as living on the Erie “canal near brewery”; most probably referring to Benson’s brewery. Little else is known about Benson or his brewery.
Buffalo’s Seventh Brewery: 1836 Urban Brewery
Lewis Urban is listed in the 1836-7 city directory along with Louis Kappler, Joseph Laux and George Urban as brewing at Main opposite the Academy (south east corner of Main and Virginia). By 1838 Henry Mochel joined the brewery. They all brewed together or some may have just rented the location and equipment independently. In any event, Lewis Urban was the one constant brewer in the group.
In 1839 Urban and Moschel moved their brewing operation to Main opposite the US Barracks (east side of Main between Allen and North Streets). Urban must have found a ready clientele among the three US Army artillery companies stationed at the Barracks.
Sometime after 1840 Urban and Mochel split up but stayed close to each other on Main Street. Lewis Urban moved his brewery to Main above Goodell and Mochel moved to Main opposite the High School (Main between Goodell and Virginia) in 1840. By 1844 Mochel is no longer listed and by 1848 Urban is listed in the City Directory as a “wine merchant”.
Buffalo’s Eight Brewer: 1836 Giesz Brewery
Anthony Giesz was born in 1793, the lower Rhine, France. He learned the cooper’s trade (barrel maker) while living there. Immigrating to America in 1821he landed in New York City and later moved to Buffalo. Giesz is listed in the 1836 city directory as brewing at Main above Chippewa. He remained at that location until 1840 when he moved his brewery to the Eagle Tavern on Main near Court Street. The Eagle is early Buffalo’s most famous tavern, where many important guests stayed, such as the Revolutionary War General Marquis de Lafayette. Moreover, the tavern acted as a government and business center with many important local functions and dinners held there. The Giesz brewery was probably brewing beer for the Eagle Tavern creating Buffalo’s second “Brew-Pub”.
In 1844 Anthony Giesz moved to 42 E. Genesee and was listed only as a “wine cooper (cask maker), & distiller”.
Buffalo’s ninth Brewery: 1837 Friedman Brewery
Ignatius Friedman is listed in the 1837 Buffalo city directory as a brewer at Oak below Goodell Street (later Oak near Tupper). His name was misspelled several different ways in the early directories, leading one to think he had difficulty with the English language.
In 1840 his son Joseph[5] joined the brewery. The Buffalo Brewers Association 1897 Souvenir pamphlet stated: “He erected here a brew house, dwelling and restaurant, and while beer was sold in the saloons at that time for 5 cents per quart, he sold his product at six pence or 6 1/4 cents per quart, from which fact he was called “sixpence”, which so advertised him that he did a lucrative business.” Joseph Friedman continued the brewery until 1855 when he sold it to Magnus Beck & Baumgartner.
In 1865 Baumgartner left the brewery and erected a new brewery at the corner of Exchange and Van Rensselaer, but died soon afterward. His new brewery was probably taken over by Christian Dier after his death.
Beck then moved the brewing operation from Oak and Tupper to 407 N. Division Street. Becks Brewery went on to become one of Buffalo’s best known and longest operating Breweries, finally closing in 1955.
Buffalo’s Tenth Brewery: 1837 Burr Brewery
Sidney Burr arrived in Buffalo before 1828 and started a grocery business, on Seneca St. below Washington sometime after 1832. From 1837 until 1839 his business is listed in the directory as “Grocer and Small Beer Manufactory”. He either tried his hand at brewing or hired someone to brew beer for him. After Burr’s short lived venture in brewing beer he began importing kegs of beer, porter and ale from as far away as London and Philadelphia via the Erie Canal. He then bottled it for resale to Buffalo’s residents who were made wealthy by the advent of the Erie Canal.
In 1838 Levi J Waters joined Burr as an employee and later became his business partner. In the 1839 Buffalo City Directory they are listed as “Burr & Waters, beer, cider, vinegar & porter, vaults East Seneca below Washington”. Burr and Waters remained in business until 1854 as sellers of bottled beer, vinegar and cider.
Note: I would like to thank David Mik, “Buffalo’s Unofficial Brewery Historian” for his generous support and help with this article.
[1] All brewers that were located in what are now the current Buffalo city limits are considered Buffalo brewers in this article.
[2] Commercial meaning operating for a profit
[3] In researching this article first source material was used when available and the older sources were more heavily weighted.
[4] The date followed by a question mark is the most probable date the brewery began business. tThe next date is when period documentation confirmed the brewery was in business.
[5] Joseph may not have been the son but Ignatius’ Americanized first name.
By John P. Eiss (6/2015)
The Niagara Frontier is located in Western New York State between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario along the Niagara River. At the turn of the 18th century the Niagara Frontier was a rugged and distant wilderness populated by Native Americans, adventurers, and traders. In1789 the areas first tavern located on Buffalo Creek near the Niagara River was operated by Joseph Hodge, locally known as “Black Joe”. Hodge sold and bartered alcohol to fur traders and travelers. The alcohol available at the time was whisky or rum as they were relatively inexpensive, easy to transport and had a long shelf life. The Village of Buffalo was settled in the same area as “Black Joes” and later became the hub of the Niagara Frontier.
Cider (hard) was a popular drink in the area and most likely was the first alcohol beverage locally produced. By 1810 most whisky and rum arrived from Pittsburgh and Detroit aboard Great Lakes sailing ships. Beer was not available on the Niagara Frontier as it had a short shelf life and was too expensive to transport. Once farmers began arriving in large numbers beginning in 1800 and growing crops of wheat, barley, oats and corn the home brewing of beer began in earnest. The first residents of Buffalo were mostly English and Scottish as were the first brewers[1]. During this pre-canal period only one commercial brewing operation has been documented in Buffalo[2].
The opening of the Erie Canal in 1825 was a watershed event for Buffalo and the Niagara Frontier. The Canal connected the Hudson River and New York City to the Great Lakes through Buffalo at the western terminus of the canal. In just a few years the backwater frontier Village of Buffalo was turned into the fastest growing transportation center in the United States. The canal opened up a fast and cheap route for transporting lumber and grain from the mid-west to the east coast, and finished goods and people from the east to the west. Travel time between Buffalo and New York was reduced from six weeks to ten days, and transportation cost fell from $100 to $10 a ton. When the Erie Canal was first completed in 1825 Buffalo’s population was 2600, five years later it more than doubled to over 6000. The canal also redefined buffalo brewing from a cottage endeavor to an industry. Buffalo developed into one of the country’s major brewing centers during the 1800’s. In 1873 alone there were over 33 breweries listed in the city directory producing 176,299 barrels of beer and ale annually.
Commercial brewing operations[3] began showing up throughout the area in the 1830’s. Locally brewers were brewing “small beer” low in alcohol and high in nutrients but with a short shelf life. Brewing was generally only possible form October until March when temperatures were low enough to allow fermentation of the wort (beer). For this reason most Buffalo brewers had other occupations during the summer months. Making soap and candles with ash produced from the wood burned in the brewing process was a common summer occupation for early Brewers. The local beer began to grow in popularity as it became more readily available. It was safe to drink and the local temperance groups, of which there were many, were more opposed to the high alcohol distilled drinks such as whisky and rum. Buffalo’s first brewing operations were very small producing only one to three barrels at a time. Brewing only required knowledge, hard work, ingredients, and three or four vessels: a copper brewing kettle, wooden mash tun, an optional cooling vessel and wooden fermenting container or barrel. The brewers, as did most merchants, operated under the barter system. Money was hard to come by on the Niagara Frontier and brewers would exchange beer for grain or other farm goods.
Buffalo’s upper class, in the 1830’s and 40’s, favored Champaign, Madeira, Sherry, and Bordeaux wines along with pure cognac. New England rum and gin were also popular and so was London porter mixed with ale called “alf and ‘alf”. Whisky was considered a vulgar drink meant for the lower classes. The opening of the canal allowed for the cheap transport of all these drinks by the barrel from cities like Philadelphia and London. Local merchants would then bottle the liquor, porter and ale for sale. Porter and ale were higher in alcohol and hops allowing for extended shipping distances. Small beer only lasted for a short time, especially in the hot weather, requiring it to be brewed locally. In the 1840’s brewers began to dig cellars, harvest lake ice and were able to store beer for longer periods of time. In the 1850’s Buffalo brewers started brewing lager beers requiring lower fermentation temperatures and longer storage periods.
Buffalo’s First Brewery: 1811 Joseph Webb Brewery
Joseph Webb was Buffalo’s first documented commercial brewer. He operated the Black Rock Brewery in 1811 based on ads placed in the “Buffalo Gazette” in November and December of that year.
His Brewery was located in what was then the Village of Black Rock, just north of Buffalo, on the Niagara River. It is now known as the Black Rock district of Buffalo. His choice of a brewing location may have been influenced by the large contingency of American military stationed at Black Rock because of the War of 1812.
The White Ash Letters of 30 Nov. 1811 also attested to the breweries existence: “Joseph Webb has foresight; he believes whiskey is injurious; he knows that men will not confine themselves to the use of water”. Obviously the temperance issue and water safety were concerns of the time and Webb was trying to use them to his advantage.
Webb’s Black Rock Brewery was most likely destroyed in December of 1813 when the British crossed the Niagara River from Canada and burned all of Black Rock and Buffalo. There is no further mention of Webb or his Brewery after 1811.
We can learn several additional facts from the Webb ads. First, they were placed in cold weather as brewing was not possible in hot weather. Second, he employed the credit and barter systems in his brewing operation. Third he brewed with wheat and barley indicating they were readily available locally. Lastly, the terms “malt liquor” and “beer” were interchangeable at that time.
Buffalo’s Second Brewery: 1824?[4] 1825 Kane, Peacock and Relay Brewery
It is most likely there were several brewing operations in Buffalo between 1811 and 1824; however records of their existence are lost or never existed. According to the 1825 census of Buffalo taken by Leonard P. Crary two breweries were operating in Buffalo. However, an article by Sheldon Ball states there was only one brewery in 1825 Buffalo. The disparity probably centers on what were considered the boundaries of Buffalo at the time.
The second documented Buffalo brewery was operated as early as 1824 by Dennis Kane, P. Peacock and Charles Relay. The three men are listed in the 1828 Buffalo Directory as brewers, Niagara Street. In addition the 1828 Map of Buffalo by L.P. Crary shows a brewery at the corner of Niagara, Mohawk and Morgan (later Elmwood) Streets. Apparently their brewing operation ended before 1832 as it is not listed in the 1832 directory and only Charles C. Relay was listed as a brewer on Seneca Street.
Kane, Peacock and Relay brewery was short lived however and a 1909 article in the Buffalo Evening Times indicates John Moffat and his son James purchased the brewing operation around 1833. Also, the 1836 Buffalo City Directory lists Moffat as a brewer at that location. The 1839 Directory lists James Moffat & Co. as a “brewery, Soap and Candle Factory”. The Moffat Brewery continued in operation until son James died and it was sold to Arthur Fox and became the Fox and Williams Brewery. In 1876 it was sold back to the Moffat family and continued in operation at the same location until the advent of Prohibition forced their closure in 1920. After Prohibition the Phoenix Brewery continued brewing “Moffats Pale Ale” through an agreement with the Moffat family.
Buffalo’s Third Brewery and First Brew-Pub: 1826 Rudolph Barr, Cold Springs Tavern & Brewery
The Cold Springs Tavern was located near a natural fresh water spring just north of Buffalo and was a major stopping place on the Niagara Frontier for soldiers and travelers before, during and after the war of 1812. The Tavern was located at Main and Ferry Streets in present day Buffalo. Rudolph Barr with two partners took over operation of the old Cold Springs Tavern around 1825. After a year or so Barr started a brewery at the location and gave Buffalo its first Brew-Pub.
Rudolph Barr was originally from Switzerland and came to America in 1814. Barr has been credited with brewing the first strong beer in Buffalo. Strong beer and lager beer are not the same thing. Small beer and strong beer use top fermenting yeast while lager beer uses bottom fermenting yeast that need lower brewing temperatures. Small beer is lower in alcohol than strong beer. Both of Barr’s partners left the business and Barr eventually sold his tavern and brewery in 1834.
James Mcleish took over operation of the brewery in1836 and later added a malting operation and distillery. By 1857 Mcleish had stopped brewing but continued his malting operation for some time.
Buffalo’s Forth Brewery: 1830? 1836 Roos Brewery
Several newspaper accounts and a brewer’s convention publication in 1888 and 1897 indicate Jacob Roos brewed beer as early as1830 in Sandy Town north of Black Rock on York Street (now Porter Ave.) near the Erie Canal. At that time Sandy Town was not part of Buffalo and not included in the Buffalo directories. The first contemporary documented record of Jacob Roos brewing in Buffalo was the 1836 city directory. It indicates he commercially brewed beer on Rock St. (later Canal St.) below Genesee near the canal district.
The1837 city directory lists Jacob Roos as moving his brewery to German above Oak. In the 1838-9 city directory Roos again moved his brewery to its final location at Pratt Street near Batavia (later Broadway). Jacob Roos operated the brewery until his death in 1867. Jacob’s son George Roos continued the brewery operation until 1893 when Leonard Burgwerger purchased it.
Burgwerger built a new brewery on the site and called it the Iroquois Brewing Co. The brewery continued in operation until “Prohibition” in 1920. It reopened at the end of “Prohibition”. After several owner changes and a final acquisition by the International Breweries Inc that failed the brewery closed in 1971. Iroquois was one of Buffalo’s largest and most successful breweries.
Buffalo’s Fifth Brewers: 1830? 1832 McCulloch Brewery
Alexander McCulloch and his son John were listed as brewers, Seneca Street in the 1832 Buffalo Directory. Charles C. Relay of Buffalo’s second brewery is also listed as a brewer, Seneca Street. Could Relay and McCulloch have brewed together for a short time?
The “Hydraulics” was an area near present day Seneca and Hydraulic Streets where a canal was dug in 1828 from Buffalo Creek to produce hydraulic power for an industrial zone. The 1832 Buffalo Directory lists this area as having a grist mill, hat body shop, pail factory, last factory, woolen factory and one brewery believed to be McCulloch’s. Around 1836 the Hydraulics name was changed to “Clintonville” with a population of 500. It was later incorporated into the city of Buffalo.
Alexander had three sons with his wife Elizabeth: Alexander Jr. the eldest, John H. and James. Alexander Sr., who turned the brewery over to his eldest son around 1836, continued to live in Clintonville with his wife until his death around 1846. The McCulloch’s became an important family in what was then called the “Hydraulics” or “Clintonville”. Alexander Jr. and his brothers operated their brewery located on Mill Street near the Hydraulic canal (later Hydraulic St.) until 1843 when they relocated to Steuben Street (later becoming part of Carroll Street) also near the Hydraulic canal. The Attica Railroad laid tracks into Buffalo down Mill Street in the early 1840’s. This is probably what caused McCulloch to relocate his brewery to Steuben Street.
In 1847 the McCulloch’s sold their brewery to James H. Barton and Matthew J. Gilman. The Barton and Gilman Brewery operated until 1857 when it was sold to William W. Sloan. Sloan named his brewery the Hydraulic Brewery. The location remained the same but the address changed to 686 - 702 Carroll Street. Sloan continued brewing and malting at the Hydraulic Brewery until 1876.
Buffalo’s Sixth Brewery: 1830? 1832 Benson Brewery
John Benson is listed as a brewer at 202 Main Street in the 1932 Buffalo Directory. Most brewers needed a second occupation especially during the summer months when brewing was not possible. John and Michael Benson were appointed watchmen (constables) of the triangle district (canal and Main St.) by the district council in 1832. This suggests they were respected and established businessmen (probable brewers) in the area as early as 1829. As watchmen they were most active during the non-brewing summer months when the canal and lake were open to traffic.
In 1836 the Bensons moved their brewing operation to the corner of Church and Genesee Streets, next to the Erie Canal. Michel Benson continued to operate the brewery until at least 1842. John Benson worked at the brewery along with Robert Coombs during much of that time. William Cronk, a Milkman, was also listed in the 1836 directory as living on the Erie “canal near brewery”; most probably referring to Benson’s brewery. Little else is known about Benson or his brewery.
Buffalo’s Seventh Brewery: 1836 Urban Brewery
Lewis Urban is listed in the 1836-7 city directory along with Louis Kappler, Joseph Laux and George Urban as brewing at Main opposite the Academy (south east corner of Main and Virginia). By 1838 Henry Mochel joined the brewery. They all brewed together or some may have just rented the location and equipment independently. In any event, Lewis Urban was the one constant brewer in the group.
In 1839 Urban and Moschel moved their brewing operation to Main opposite the US Barracks (east side of Main between Allen and North Streets). Urban must have found a ready clientele among the three US Army artillery companies stationed at the Barracks.
Sometime after 1840 Urban and Mochel split up but stayed close to each other on Main Street. Lewis Urban moved his brewery to Main above Goodell and Mochel moved to Main opposite the High School (Main between Goodell and Virginia) in 1840. By 1844 Mochel is no longer listed and by 1848 Urban is listed in the City Directory as a “wine merchant”.
Buffalo’s Eight Brewer: 1836 Giesz Brewery
Anthony Giesz was born in 1793, the lower Rhine, France. He learned the cooper’s trade (barrel maker) while living there. Immigrating to America in 1821he landed in New York City and later moved to Buffalo. Giesz is listed in the 1836 city directory as brewing at Main above Chippewa. He remained at that location until 1840 when he moved his brewery to the Eagle Tavern on Main near Court Street. The Eagle is early Buffalo’s most famous tavern, where many important guests stayed, such as the Revolutionary War General Marquis de Lafayette. Moreover, the tavern acted as a government and business center with many important local functions and dinners held there. The Giesz brewery was probably brewing beer for the Eagle Tavern creating Buffalo’s second “Brew-Pub”.
In 1844 Anthony Giesz moved to 42 E. Genesee and was listed only as a “wine cooper (cask maker), & distiller”.
Buffalo’s ninth Brewery: 1837 Friedman Brewery
Ignatius Friedman is listed in the 1837 Buffalo city directory as a brewer at Oak below Goodell Street (later Oak near Tupper). His name was misspelled several different ways in the early directories, leading one to think he had difficulty with the English language.
In 1840 his son Joseph[5] joined the brewery. The Buffalo Brewers Association 1897 Souvenir pamphlet stated: “He erected here a brew house, dwelling and restaurant, and while beer was sold in the saloons at that time for 5 cents per quart, he sold his product at six pence or 6 1/4 cents per quart, from which fact he was called “sixpence”, which so advertised him that he did a lucrative business.” Joseph Friedman continued the brewery until 1855 when he sold it to Magnus Beck & Baumgartner.
In 1865 Baumgartner left the brewery and erected a new brewery at the corner of Exchange and Van Rensselaer, but died soon afterward. His new brewery was probably taken over by Christian Dier after his death.
Beck then moved the brewing operation from Oak and Tupper to 407 N. Division Street. Becks Brewery went on to become one of Buffalo’s best known and longest operating Breweries, finally closing in 1955.
Buffalo’s Tenth Brewery: 1837 Burr Brewery
Sidney Burr arrived in Buffalo before 1828 and started a grocery business, on Seneca St. below Washington sometime after 1832. From 1837 until 1839 his business is listed in the directory as “Grocer and Small Beer Manufactory”. He either tried his hand at brewing or hired someone to brew beer for him. After Burr’s short lived venture in brewing beer he began importing kegs of beer, porter and ale from as far away as London and Philadelphia via the Erie Canal. He then bottled it for resale to Buffalo’s residents who were made wealthy by the advent of the Erie Canal.
In 1838 Levi J Waters joined Burr as an employee and later became his business partner. In the 1839 Buffalo City Directory they are listed as “Burr & Waters, beer, cider, vinegar & porter, vaults East Seneca below Washington”. Burr and Waters remained in business until 1854 as sellers of bottled beer, vinegar and cider.
Note: I would like to thank David Mik, “Buffalo’s Unofficial Brewery Historian” for his generous support and help with this article.
[1] All brewers that were located in what are now the current Buffalo city limits are considered Buffalo brewers in this article.
[2] Commercial meaning operating for a profit
[3] In researching this article first source material was used when available and the older sources were more heavily weighted.
[4] The date followed by a question mark is the most probable date the brewery began business. tThe next date is when period documentation confirmed the brewery was in business.
[5] Joseph may not have been the son but Ignatius’ Americanized first name.